Thursday 25 March 2010

Day Six

Menswear!

The final day, menswear day, all the girls were very excited by today’s events because its just boys, boys, boys. The collection that everyone was buzzing about was finishing off the week and at a different venue somewhere near Shoreditch. Vivienne Westwood’s son was showcasing his menswear collection which was the excitement of the day, that and the potential that Vivienne Westwood might be there.


A Child of Jago


‘A Child of Jago is a child of the street. The destitute and illegitimate progeny of a hopelessly rundown environment’



The location already set the scene for what was in store. A raw red brick building in east London set on a quite back street, wooden benches lined the side of the catwalk, while white sheets hung from one end and photographers scrambled at the other. As expected the venue was packed, with Vivienne Westwood and Janet Jackson taking front row seats. A man played an instrument along the catwalk while singing to the audience which added to the shows unpolished ambience. The atmosphere was relaxed and pumped. Everyone drank and chatted merely waiting for the fun to begin.



The collections had everything from baggy t-shirts to suspenders, tailored suits to boiler suits, leather, wool, leopard and more which unique and artistic. A strange unusual of models stepped down the runway from old to young but it did not matter.



Leather jackets worn over printed tees, woollen jumpers with tribal print and linton tweed were thrown together in a rather make-do and mend fashion creating a somewhat rough and ready look. Bowler hats topped off the outfit in moss greens, grey, red and metal.



The music changed to a French sounding tune as barriers, silk scarf’s knotted around the neck and shirts with jackets appeared down the runway. Another change in the music; this time a rockier sound echoed through this underground haven and into the collection. A velvet waistcoat; dickybows and blazers appeared. The tailoring was sharp the fabrics woollen, checked and sometimes with metallic moments. The designs were formal yet fun. Trimmed waistcoats and blazers made for an elegant and sophisticated appearance.




There were also a few female designs thrown into the mix, sporting first the tribal knit wear followed with suspenders and a dominatrix leather coat.


The overall show was amazing because it was fun and had on eccentric and real feel. It was a ‘deliciously poisonous dose of punk attitude and deadly dandy swagger.’

Rounding up womens wear

William Tempest


The room was packed with the likes of Peaches Geldof and Sophie Anderton in the front row. The collection was entitled ‘Under the Abaya’ inspired by Islamic architecture and the legend of the Queen Sheeba’s journey to Israel. The show kicked off with a series of black satin dresses, the fabric was folded and manipulated to create different shapes and volumes. They were feminine, classic and sharp which were powerful, tailored and structured. Metallic dresses clung and moved to the body in sandy hues.



William played with contrasting fabrics, the colour palette inspired by an Egyptian postcard was a combination of deep blue, black, emerald green and sandy tones. Emerald green and aquamarine dresses cut with geometric panels sashayed down the runway while a black mini dress draped down one side with a sweeping black fabric scraping the floor this ended the show.


The collection focused on nipped in waists and accentuated hips and shoulders. He contoured the fabric to create interesting shapes and used a mixture of colour, silk, satin and leather fabrics to create texture.

Day Five

It is the penultimate day but it is the final day of women’s wear and today is going to be good. Ada Zanditon, Alice Palmer and the much awaited William Tempest are all showing and everyone is very excited.

Ada Zanditon


Ada Zanditon - Imaging a winter sun set of purples, pinks and blues, ‘Echolocation’ was reminiscent of a warm rainbow of colour. The body con printed designs added a feminine flair and alluring touch.



The collection was not only playful in colour but in shape and structure too. The architectural panels and waves on body con dresses in greens, blues and moody sun set tones added vavavoom to the wearable collection. Smoky grey big collared jackets with tied waist belts wrapped up the show.



Alice Palmer

Alice Palmer - presented ‘Batman’ a woollen collection made from a simple palette of white, black and grey. Although the colour scheme was kept simple her designs were sharp and strong with angular edges giving off a rock chick vibe.

The pointed shapes woven with wool created interesting structure. Spiky studded jumpers and leggings made the collection striking and unique.

Exhibition Designers

After the show I was done for the day; time for some exploring me thinks, so onwards and upwards to see what the exhibition is all about.

There were some incredible exhibition designers showcasing but their works a few that particularly caught me eye were:

Dean Quinn


Dean Quinn presented an exquisite series of black mini dresses which are sharp, sexy and powerful in appearance. The sheer silk fabric bodies with zigzag embellishment combined with the heavily beaded spiky shoulders added texture and shape. The dresses are bold, daring and unique with a charming designer to match.



Felicity Brown


Felicity Brown with an incredible background in fashion was represented by her brother. Together they exhibited a collection of beautiful handmade silk dresses. Each layer of silk hand pleated creating gorgeous flowing layers of fabric. The multiple layers are cut to different lengths to ensure that they float and move with the body. Each dress is structured inside and holds a unique shape on the outside. The silk fabric is hand died in hues of midnight blue, burnt orange and turquoise on a cream background adding an ultra feminine touch. There was also a collection of printed t-shirts but the dresses beauty cast a shadow over them.



Charlotte Taylor

It was Charlotte Taylor’s infamous penguin print which first caught my attention. The playful yellow penguins on a sky blue background were present throughout the collection. The architectural folds of the fabric on this navy blue cape made it stand out. The burnt orange strips of fabric against the dark blue, combined with the asymmetrical lines of the jacket made this coast fun and feminine. The collection is wearable, elegant and the lines are cut to flatter.

Day Four

There are just two catwalk shows and two presentations, so it is going to be a short day. The first show, Merit Award winner: Hermione de Paula. Having featured in Ones To Watch last season, there were high expectations. She is a print specialist and her first collection showcased a selection of delicate beautiful hand painted feminine designs. I wonder what this year will bring.



The collection ‘Ploy-Crystalline’ was inspired by an experiment with ice which explains the ice queen persona that echoed throughout. Sharp bobs with straight cut fringes in hues of ash, gold, purple rinse and red, teamed with the block eye make up and dark plum lips add a strong, sexy feminine edge.



The cold colour palette was made up of black, white, iceberg blue and frozen pink. The collection was laced with Hermoines signature patterned fabric. Black and white rose print added to the icy montage while the dresses hugged the figure and were consciously cut to outline the female form, focusing on the breast and hip area. Plastic panels and bodices made for a rather risqué queen of the ice.

Day Three

Day Off!!!

Jasper Garvida

Jasper Garvida - winner of project runway in 2008 finished off day two. Everyone was buzzing with excitement and the catwalk was packed as the likes of Sophie Anderton, Liz McClaron and Beverly Knight awaited the much anticipated Garvida. I had a great spot right at the end of the catwalk with the photographers.


As the Jazz music begun playing the first model stepped out in a marble green and black dress which included gold zip detailing down the back. The black trilbies, deep plum red lips and leather gloves added volumes of glamour.



Variations of Art Deco inspired jackets in black, silver and emerald green and mini-dresses with loosely hung sleeves were strutted down the runway. Silk harem pants in neutral pastels and woollen jumpers broke up the collection showing a softer side.





Next a series of psychedelic patterned skirts teamed with white shirts and leather jackets were strutted down the runway. The collection then moved into a smoky palette of fitted dresses with sequins, embellishments and woollen jumpers were thrown into the mix. Finally, evening wear, luxurious floor lengths silk gowns with some with bird feather textures and others with sharp pointed shoulders, dropped backs completed the show.


The vibe after the show was a little disappointing the collection didn’t quite live up to the anticipated expectations. It is this little intern’s day off tomorrow so I feel dinner and cocktails are in order.

Sado


Sado’s - collection featured soft, comfy woollen jumpers in shades of black, cream and grey. Teaming these with black leggings, leather boots and a bag made an overall ready to wear look. Running with the theme lovely big black woollen capes and jackets were worn over a cream woollen dress and patterned leggings. To add texture and keep the look unique, layers of ribbon in red and blue were used to create interesting leggings and loosely draped dress flattering the body.

Day Two

With my camera attached to me, holding on to it for dear life, I am now ready to start another fun filled day of goodie bags, ushering and most excitingly the shows. House of Blue Eyes was first on the agenda; it was a presentation that had stirred up a lot of interest.




As I was standing waiting for the show to begin I suddenly became engulfed in a multi-colour huddled of glitter and mayhem. As Jonny Blue Eyes screamed down the hall way ‘WORK IT, WORK IT!’ it begged the question is this a run through? No the show had begun, this was the show! It was reminiscent of a parade or festival, colourful, lively and fun, a little rough around the edges for a catwalk show. The clothes passed me by but it was the performance that had me glued. The models walked back up the runway, one with a dog dangling from her arm – madness! Once again I became surrounded by a rainbow of colour with no signs of a way out. I over heard his kind words which left me walking away with a smile.



During all the Jonny Blue Eyes craziness Iris Van Herpen was the focus point downstairs in the catwalk room. It was apparently amazing, gutted!


Ones to Watch

One of my favourite shows all week was, Ones To Watch, four collections were showcased ASKH, David Longshaw, Eudon Choi, Florencia Kozuch. Each collection was different with its own personality and each were equally as striking as the next.

ASKH


ASKH - the collection was clean and fresh with a neutral colour scheme. The best piece was a nude skin tight body with strings of fabric draping from high around the neck down the body and across the sides front and arms. It was beautiful, sexy and interesting.


David Longshaw



David Longshaw - used rich blues to create an impact on the runway, with cut away shapes and lighter tones to accentuate the shape. The shoulders were big and embellished with silver and gold gems.


Eudon Choi



Eudon Choi - the collection took you back to Mother Nature with natural tones of green, brown and beige. The series of mackintoshes, waders and woollen jumpers added an outdoors feel to the whole collection.


Florencia Kozuch



Florencia Kozuch - was my personal favourite; the large rimmed hats added the lost glamour that I love. Black strappy heels with yellow, red and purple pompoms on were worn throughout the collection. Looped knits added shape whilst remaining soft and comfortable looking. Big woollen scarf’s and mop like shoulders added an extra dimension to the collection.



All four designers were innovative, creative and fresh which all showed completely differing collections that were both memorable and made it one of the best shows of the week.



Gemma Slack


Gemma Slack - was featured in the presentation room. Her collection framed the room while the band Chew Lips provided musical entertainment. The colour scheme black, black and black fitted right in with the people filling the room. The mixture of fabrics; wool, leather, chiffon accompanied with gold spikes and the cut of the garments created a provocative, edgy striking collection.

Danny Tang


Danny Tang - found inspiration in Queen Victoria and used bibs, ruffs, capes and layered fabric in a petal shape to create a bird like feather effect. The collection was grand in design with high necklines, bodices and full length dresses and bold in colour, using only black, red and gold. The fabrics, chiffon, silk and lace added texture and depth. The most memorable feature was black lace fingerless gloves and black glittery floral facial and body decoration which also added a feminine touch throughout.

BODYAMR

BODYAMR - was strong and dramatic. The models strutted their stuff on a hard marble floor through wrought iron gates to a pounding soundtrack. The mixture of soft draping against the contours of their bodies with the sharp tailored black dresses represented a powerful glamorous image.

The colours black, maroon, turquoise, gold and cream, combined with satin, leather, jersey, metallic’s and lace created an interesting collection of textures. The show was a celebration of the female form accentuating the sexy empowered persona of a goddess warrior. The fabrics were tailored to flatter, the waist a focal point synched in with gold trimmed panels of fabric. From gorilla jackets to biker leather and delicate sequins the look was fierce and sharp.

My favourite element was the legs; embellished tight/leggings with gold safety pins and knee high leg warmers in metallic gold - the black and wet look leather caught my eye.

Day One

Mayhem had already started before we arrived. Bodies in black were rushing here there and everywhere in an attempt to get the venue ready and the show on the road. As guests began to arrive for the first show temperatures were rising and panic set in as the finishing touches were put in place. A sea of bodies filled the foyer, the catwalk was prepared, goodie bags in place and exhibition guides lined the seats while interns hovered around every corner.


The foyer buzzed with photographers, press and fashion industry people. Everyone looked fresh and excited to see the first show. The humming of conversation slowly drifted into the catwalk room where the action was about to take place. The room fell silent and the doors closed and the show had begun.


Unfortunately, this intern was not lucky enough to witness the first show but did get to see Rex from Big Brother, what a treat! My next assigned task was helping out at BODYAMR which really was a delight. With the likes of Nicola Roberts and Rachel Stevens in the audience and whispered rumours of Katie Perry and Russel Brand attending, this show was definitely one to watch.



Annoyingly, I didn’t have my camera with me at this point so none of these are my own I’m afraid.

The glamorous life of an intern

This is a day to day account of the trials and tribulations of an intern at London fashion week, including show coverage of the week.

Having never worked at London fashion week before it was a slightly nerve racking experience. Vauxhall Fashion Scout drives emerging talent launching the next generation of designers into the fashion world. The venue was, The Freemasons building situated in Covent Garden. The maze of a building spread onto two floors which was separated into a foyer and a catwalk room, an exhibition room, a presentation room and a media centre. The building was a challenge to navigate through but its grand nature and personality made for a dramatic setting.

Thursday 4 March 2010

A sea of black

Black always a staple colour and most often than not is a key component in any wardrobe. Which is lucky as the working dress code at London fashion week was head to toe black. One would assume that in a sea of black one intern to the next would merge together but how wrong could one be. Never before have I seen people communicating through fashion in such a forced manner with no one person looking the same as the next or wanting to either. It was a difficult task, waking up everyday and assessing the black wardrobe situation to create an image that is fresh, unique and most importantly you.

If there was any time to observe how people communicate through fashion it was now. The place was filled to the brim with different styles which echoed individual personalities.




The little vintage pixie with a love for all things black she played with textures and shapes. Here she is wearing a fringed cropped black jumper that was once her mothers, over a ruched panelled skirt teamed with a lace jacket and military boots. The lace jacket beautiful in its shape, with little puffed shoulders and an elastic band waist, can be done up creating a gorgeous silhouette, fabulous.





The punk rocker with a hate for all things black mixed it up with a blue and black jumpsuit, a leather jacket and pumps creating an edgier style. Just like her personality her clothes were bold, fearless and spoke volumes. Confessing that black isn’t a permanent feature in her wardrobe she certainly had fun with it and always stood out from the crowd.





The innocent black beauty with a charming eye for layers and accessories creates an interesting combination that is both enchanting and alluring. A basic black body is teamed with a hook and eye waist length cardigan, with another cargigan draped in a darker shade. A cold grey boyfriend blazer kept the overall look sharp. On the accessories front a bold layered silver Vivienne Westwood necklace and a flower in her hair add a girly innocence, which echoed her shy girlish nature.





An army of military boots were showcased in a variety of colours along with a mishmash of suede knee highs, so when these pearly pumps caught my eye it made for a refreshing change.


The onlookers that made up the rows of seats at the shows worked the dark shades of the rainbow but none communicated through their wardrobe choices as much as these.





Whats walking the streets.

Shoes glorious shoes! They say that you can tell a lot about a person simply by looking at their shoes. We all need them, we all wear them, but what’s stepping out onto the catwalk and what’s stomping our streets?




Over the past few season floating onto the catwalk time and time again is the skyscraper platform. It has been a favourite with designers and recently been taken to extreme levels. Alexander McQueen spring/summer 2010 collection made the headlines for his extraordinary alienating shoes. They simply are out of this world, so much so that their impractical nature means not street smart. McQueen was not alone in show stopping footwear; John Galliano showcased a romantic sky high platform, a towering pearl heel combined with a pearl ankle charm. Lace and silk bows made for a fairy tail surprise. On the other side of the fence Kirkwood went for a more industrial architectural style and Chanel brought back the classic wooden soled clog. One thing is for sure the shoes weren’t boring.





Recently there has been a shift in shoe heights. Joining these towering platforms on the runway is a series of flats and low wedges. Louis Vuitton went nuts with, well, indescribable shoes while Calvin Klein went for minimalistic sandals and from Chloe we saw buckles. Marc Jacobs even went for an oriental style low platform sandal.





With so many fabulous shoes from fly high platforms to low wedges and flats what can be found treading our streets? Black, black, black, oh and some brown thrown in for good measure. Boring, dull and practical are the words best used to describe what we are stepping out in. Is it the unpredictable weather that is deterring us from stepping out in our finest footwear? Is our want for comfort over ruling our fashion conscious minds? It seems madness with such inspiring footwear on the catwalk that there is nothing on the streets but Uggs, trainers and simple black boots.


There was a glimmer of hope. A fabulous pair of mukluks caught my eye, the fashion hungry owner of such boots had to order them from aboard but it was well worth it. Black boots with studded straps stood out in the sea of blackness with there rock edge. But the all time favourite has to be a pair of black and white polka dot platform shoes with a seventies disco fever style. They were simply so different they were great.